Stepping way back in time in the Orkney's

A late start in Inverness as we did some much needed catching up with the internet and what we were doing the next couple of days. We left Inverness hostel at about 10.30 with the idea that we would have lunch at John O'Groats before jumping on the ferry to the Orkney's.

Scenery

The scenery on our trip to the top of Scotland was not as varied as we had had the day before but certainly not any less spectacular. A prominent sight was stuff called grouse. I believe we have it in Australia but not quite as prolific in coverage. I was everywhere. For us, the people driving by, it was bright yellow and in some places quite stunning – but for locals it must be such a pest, taking over the usable land. We wound and wound our way up the east coast so I was pleased I was driving otherwise my belly may not have been too impressed.

On top of the world!

Well not quite the top of the world but John O'Groats is pretty darn close to the top of Scotland. Our estimation of how long it would take us to get there was a little askew which meant by the time we arrived we were ravenous. Sudden wild weather confined us to the car to pull together the ingredients we had bought the night before. A bit of a squeeze but hunger enabled us to achieve almost the impossible. As we munched on our sandwiches (yes Tesco had gluten free...I guess you could call it bread) the sun broke through and as quickly as the downpour had started it stopped. Just in that moment some bike riders rolled into town to excited clapping. It turns out they were just finishing a big bike trip...1074 miles in 17 days!!! They hardly looked sweaty. And we had felt that we were tired after such a long drive!

Ferry to Orkney

It was a short drive to Gills Bay were we joined the growing number of cars and bikes lining up for the ferry. I was really starting to get excited. This was a part of Scotland that Mum had not been and I just knew she would love it.

Once on the ferry we chose to forego the warm interior and climbed the stairs to the top open deck. It's moments like this that I realise how similar Mum and I are. We both grinned like idiots as the ferry pulled out from the pier. It was freezing. I was wearing four layers of clothing, a scarf, a hat and was lamenting that my gloves (which I had questioned bringing) were in the car in the middle of my pack. But as the boat traversed the waters we enjoyed the feel of going up and down making our stomachs drop. The boat did eventually level out and the water became like glass with the reflection of the descending sun turning it an apricot hue. Sigh...

Kirkwall – down memory lane … at a run

We arrived on the main island and travelled to Kirkwall and finally onto the hostel all the while followed by another rainbow. We are staying at the same hostel I had stayed at ten years ago but the area around it is quite different. We met Frank, the manager, of whom we knew quite a bit within the fifteen minutes we talked. As he told us about the hostel, including the fact that it is closed between 10 and 4.30pm (meaning all are to be out of the hostel at this time), he made a point of telling us not to exit through the fire exit doors. 'If you do it sets off an alarm that will keep going and is the signal for everyone to evacuate the building.' I didn't have the courage to tell him that ten years ago I had done this very thing. That I had pushed open the door setting off a piercing alarm that wouldn't stop after I closed the door. I did what any responsible 23 year old would do...I ran away from the hostel!

Orkney treasures

Orkney has not disappointed. At a quick glance, in one and a bit days we did the following...

Maes Howe – Standing Stones Stenness – Ring of Brodgar – Skara Brae – Skaill House – Brough of Birsay – Broch of Burness – St Magnus Cathedral – The Italian Chapel.

Transcribed from my journal...

'I'm sitting in the car at the Brough of Birsay. I'm wearing five layers of clothing that makes me feel and look a wee bit thick around the middle (and everywhere else!) but I am warm. It is seriously wild outside. The car is being nudged again and again by Lady Wind. It's 4.30pm in the afternoon and we have just had lunch. The sun is out and the sky is mostly blue. What a wonderful morning! We have stepped back in time to the neolithic period. Firstly at Mae Showe, then at Stenness, followed by the Ring of Brodgar. From there we went to Skara Brae and finally to where we are now, Brough of Birsay.

Maeshowe was as remarkable as I remembered it was last time. We all crouched down to shuffle into the mound (about 15 of us) to stand up inside a chamber that is more ancient than my 34 year old mind can comprehend. You can't take photos inside any more but the tour guide was fantastic sharing the story of its discovery and the different theories that surround its supposed purpose. I would love to be there for winter solstice when the centre chamber is lit up by the setting sun. Perhaps I wouldn't since my feet and hands were already like blocks of ice whilst we stood inside the chamber.

After Maeshowe we headed to Stenness, the first of the standing stones I am to see on this trip ... the first of many. They are reported to be one of the oldest stone circles in the country – about 5000 years ago. What is it about these stones that seems so magickal? I just want to press my hand to them and listen to the stories they have to tell. It's a little awkward doing this when there are other tourists around. In stead I took photos and silently appreciated them.

Onto the Ring of Brodgar. Quite simply a truly magickal place – for many reasons. Though we can only guess why it was created, this ring has spiritual significance simply because of how it has been viewed and used by civilisation after civilisation. One can't be without awe when walking around these tall ancient standing stones. I imagine that each person's awe at experiencing this place joins and nourishes a flow of energy that circles the stones … a ring of power that has been growing for thousands of years.

We really are very lucky to be here when we are. A month later and we would not have been able to enjoy this experience without the crowds of June tourists.

Next stop was Skara Brae. It's like walking around a movie set. Seeing it come to life with a combination of provided information and a vivid imagination. These people would have no idea that thousands of years after their existence that we would come in the thousands to pay money to see where they lived, cooked, worked and slept. That we would be fascinated with how their civilisation functioned and that we would be marvelling at the sophistication of their housing and way of life.

A notable note...Also at Skara Brae I had a hideous soy cappuccino which has me decided to refrain from coffee for the remainder of my trip.'

Our next two stops were Brough of Birsay

and Broch of Burness

We arrived back at the hostel just as the rain set in.

An early start to ensure we could visit St Magnus' Cathedral and the Italian Chapel as I really wanted Mum to experience these as two of my favourite buildings in Scotland. Ten years has not changed my assessment.

St Magnus Cathedral is a large reddish Cathedral that sits in the centre of Kirwall. It is reddish because it is made of the Orkney stone. It adds a different kind of look to the building both inside and out. It's difficult to explain but when I walk inside there is a sense of being inside a natural structure...perhaps more so a building that is built in partnership with nature rather than conquering it. Weird (my description) but I think it is because all the natural stone and specifically the reddish hue makes it feel more earthy. It still has its carvings and detail but it's not a manicured Cathedral. It is still used regularly today so it also isn't just a monument to the past. The acoustics are amazing which Mum discovered when she had the uncontrollable need to cough.

We were really lucky in that there were very few people inside. A church staff member told us that when the buses and cruises come into town they can have 4000 people come through in one day!

Our next stop on the way to the ferry was the Italian chapel. As we drove up to the chapel we could see a large bus aiming for the same place. As soon as the car was parked we sped our way into the chapel hardly glancing at the exterior. The story and vision of this chapel is remarkable. Created by the Italian prisoners of war out of a bunker...the interior completely painted. As you will see from the pictures below their artistry was as spectacular as in any grand cathedral. We were able to enjoy the inside for about five minutes before the multitude of French tourists poured into the chapel.

Quite a different experience after that so we left for the ferry back to the mainland … which I am on now as I write this. Actually, I'm feeling a little woozy as the boat goes up and down and side to side so I might close my laptop and fix my eyes on something else.

We decided to take a scenic route back to Inverness. In truth, any direction would have been scenic but this way to Tongue (yep, imagine telling people you lived in Tongue!) then down through the highlands. In addition to the scenery being pretty spectacular to look at it also included a drive through Thurso a place connected to my Mackay ancestry … so Mum tells me. Words are pretty useless in sharing the experience of the ever changing landscape and my photos are fairly useless too … but here they are.

Back at Inverness Hostel (via Tesco's!) and we are pretty exhausted. Time for bed, to begin another day of exploring tomorrow when we head west to the Isle of Skye.

Oh, one more discovery to share.

My travel pack have been making noises since I bought it a few years ago. I keep meaning to take it to Kathmandu so they can replace the harness but well it clearly hasn't happened. I've never been able to describe the noise it makes … until now. As I carried my pack in from the car yesterday I caught the excited attention of the three resident ducks. It took them a while to figure out it wasn't a group of ducks approaching but a human turtle. They took off at the sound of my laughter. My pack speaks duck! I wonder what my pack is saying?